Megan Granger

Posted on: PlumaSeptember 9, 2024

Peach Fuzz on Pluma

Dying Suri Alpaca silk blends such as Pluma can seem intimidating, so here is a really simple recipe inspired by the PANTONE® 2024 Color of the Year, Peach Fuzz, that will ensure you fall in love with dying this luxury fiber. 

PANTONE® Peach Fuzz is described as  “An appealing peach hue softly nestled between pink and orange. Peach Fuzz inspires belonging, recalibration, and an opportunity for nurturing, conjuring up an air of calm, offering us a space to be, feel, and heal and to flourish from.”

Credit: PANTONE – Peach Fuzz

In developing Peach Fuzz, I stuck to just 2 colors, magenta and yellow that will allow you to focus on the process while achieving a beautiful result.

Materials

• 1 pack of Pluma (10 skeins)
• Dharma Acid Dyes in the colors:
  • 401 Brilliant Yellow
  • 411 Deep Magenta
• Citric acid (or vinegar)
• Synthrapol Detergent (or Dawn)
• Stainless steel pan or pot
• Scale – This recipe is measured in grams
• Measuring cups
• pH strips or meter
• Kitchen thermometer
• Safety equipment:
  • Respirator or N95 mask
  • Gloves
  • Lab coat
• Heat source
• Wool wash such as Soak or Eucalan (optional)

Tips for Working with Suri Alpaca & Silk

Suri silk blends such as Pluma will take the dye brilliantly, but they do require some additional attention for the best results.

• Don’t skip the soak. Both silk and alpaca need to be fully wetted to best take up the dye which can take up to 6 hours. 
• Watch your heat. Both silk and alpaca are heat sensitive, but require high heat to obtain the brightest color possible. Use a thermometer to ensure you are using the optimal temperature of 95℉, while avoiding reaching a boil. Remove from heat as soon as the dye has exhausted. 

Mixing Dyes

Recipe for dying 4 skeins of Pluma:

• Color 1 Magenta: 0.25 grams Dharma 411 Deep Magenta

• Color 2 Yellow: 0.4 grams Dharma 401 Brilliant Yellow

Since we are measuring very low amounts of dye it is best to use a scale that is capable of weighing out to 0.01 grams such as a jewelry scale. Alternatively, you can prepare 1% stock solutions of each color by adding 1 gram of dye to 100 mL water. 

If using a stock solution you will need:

• 25 mL of Magenta 1% Stock Solution
• 40 mL of Yellow 1% Stock Solution

Mixing instructions:

Dissolve the dye powder into very hot water. If creating a stock solution, you can store the remaining solution in a sealed container for up to 1 month.

Brilliant Yellow may not go into solution very readily. First add a minimal amount of very hot water to the dye and briskly mash with a spoon or small kitchen whisk to create a paste. Gradually add water while continuously stirring until the required volume is achieved. 

Dye Procedure:

1. Soak the yarn in lukewarm water plus Synthrapol for at least 1 hour. Overnight is best to ensure the yarn is fully saturated. 
2. Fill your stainless steel pan or pot with enough water to fully immerse the yarn. ~ 5 Liters depending on the size of your container.
3. Add citric acid or vinegar to the dye pan to achieve a pH of 3.0 – 3.5. Note – The amount of acid required will depend on the mineral content of your water. For my water, I need ~ 1 TBSP / 5 L water. 
4. Add all of the Magenta dye mixture to the pan. Stir thoroughly.
5. Add your yarn to the pan turning the skeins over a few times to evenly coat the yarn with the dye. Take care not to pack or push the yarn into the pan to avoid compressing the fibers. 
6. Heat to ~185℉ – 195℉ (82℃ – 91℃). Silk and alpaca fibers are sensitive to high heat, but need high heat for full saturation of color. Watch your pans carefully to ensure the pan does not boil.
7. Heat the yarn until the dye has fully exhausted. ~30 – 45 minutes
8. Lift the yarn out of the pan.
9. Add all of the Yellow dye mixture to the pan. Stir thoroughly.
10. Return yarn to pan, carefully turning the skeins over a few times to evenly coat the yarn with the dye.
11. Heat for another 45 minutes.
12. Let cool to room temperature.
13. Gently rinse the yarn using cool water taking care not to compact the fibers.
14. Optional – Soak the yarn in a conditioning wool wash such as Soak or Eucalan for ~30 minutes. 
15. Hang yarn to dry.
16. Admire your results! Note – Silk can often become stiff after it is wet. Once dry, snap the hanks a few times between your hands to loosen the silk and fluff up the Alpaca fibers. 

The Results