Megan Granger

Posted on: Non superwashAugust 9, 2024

The Ultimate Guide to Dyeing Non-Superwash Wool Yarn for Timeless Colorwork Sweaters

Have you been dreaming of dying the perfect collection of yarn for stunning colorwork sweaters with timeless appeal?

In this blog post, I’ll be showing you how to dye four gorgeous tonal colorways on Knomad’s Clover Worsted, a luxurious, non-superwash merino wool yarn that is ideal for colorwork sweater designs. I chose classic colors that are perfect for creating sweaters that are guaranteed to be timeless.

This comprehensive guide covers:

• The recipes and instructions for dying a four color tonal collection of yarn
• Techniques and considerations for dying non-superwash yarn

Materials

• 1 pack of Clover Worsted (10 skeins)
• Dharma Acid Dyes in the colors:
  • 408 Teal Green
  • 413 True Black
  • 416 Peacock Blue
  • 426 Pecan Brown
  • 441 Peach Blush
  • 453 Fawn
  • 481 Ballerina Pink
  • 484 Platinum
• Jacquard Acid Dye in the color 633 Aztec Gold
• Citric acid (or vinegar)
• Synthrapol Detergent (or Dawn)
• Stainless steel pan or pot
• Scale – This recipe is measured in grams
• pH strips or meter
• Kitchen thermometer
• Wisk
• Tongs
• Zip ties or plastic shower rings
• Safety equipment:
  • Respirator or N95 mask
  • Gloves
  • Lab coat
• Heat source
• Wool wash such as Soak or Eucalan (optional)

Color Recipes

	Color	Amount of Dye / Skein
	Pink	0.1 g Fawn
		0.2 g Peach Blush
		0.4 g Ballerina Pink
	Teal Blue	0.5 g Peacock Blue
		1 g Teal Green
		0.25 g True Black
	Gold	2 g Aztec Gold
		0.2 g Pecan Brown
	White Silver	1 g Platinum

g = grams

Mixing instructions

Add a minimal amount of very hot water to the dye and briskly mash with a spoon or small kitchen whisk to create a paste. Gradually add more hot water while continuously stirring.

Since we are dying using an immersion method, the final volume of water does not matter. A minimum of 200 mL is recommended to ensure the dye has enough liquid to fully go into solution.

Your liquid dye solution can be stored in a sealed container for up to 1 month.

Working with Non-Superwash Wool Yarn

Clover Worsted is a non-superwash wool yarn. This is important to note because unlike superwash treated wool that has been stripped of the scales that can cause felting when agitated, the wool used in Clover is still in its natural state.

This is also what makes Clover ideal for colorwork knitting and crochet, as it’s these same scales that lock your stitches in place while reducing the gaps between stitches in your colorwork pattern, leading to a cleaner and more defined design.

When working with non-superwash wool, extra care must be taken to avoid felting the fibers. Heat, in combination with water, and agitation can cause your yarn to felt if not handled properly. Always use gentle and slow movements when transferring and turning the yarn, especially hot yarn, to ensure that the fibers are not rubbing together.

When heating, avoid reaching a full boil. If the pan is bubbling, reduce heat until the yarn is no longer being agitated by the bubbles.

Dye Procedure

The method below was followed for all colors. The yarn was periodically turned over to ensure even coating of the dye. The more the yarn is turned, the more even the dye result will be. Take caution when turning, as each turn is an opportunity for the yarn to felt.

1. 1. Attach a zip tie or plastic shower curtain ring through the center of each hank for easy handling of the yarn.
   2. Soak the yarn in lukewarm water plus Synthrapol for at least 1 hour. Overnight is best to ensure the yarn is fully saturated.
   3. Fill your stainless steel pan or pot with enough water to fully immerse the yarn. ~ 5 Liters depending on the size of your container.
   4. Add the first color in the recipe. (For example if dying pink this would be the Fawn dye Solution)
   5. Add yarn to the pan turning the skeins over a few times to evenly coat the yarn with the dye.
   6. Let sit ~20 minutes at room temperature.
   7. Add citric acid or vinegar to the dye pan to achieve a pH of 3.0 – 3.5. Note – The amount of acid required will depend on the mineral content of your water. For my tap water, I need ~ 1 TBSP / 5 L water.
   8. Heat to ~185℉ – 195℉. Do not let the yarn boil.
   9. Remove yarn from the pan. Add the next dye solution indicated in the recipe. Return yarn to pan turning the skeins over a few times to evenly coat the yarn with the dye. Tip – Securing your skeins using a plastic zip tie or shower ring will allow you to easily pick the yarn up and out of the pan so that you can hold the yarn overhead in one hand while adding dye with the other.
   10. Heat until all the dye has exhausted. ~ 30 minutes
   11. Remove yarn from the pan. Add the third dye solution. Return yarn to pan turning the skeins over a few times to evenly coat the yarn with the dye.
   12. Heat until all the dye has exhausted. Darker colors will require additional time to exhaust. Note – Aztec Yellow is a tricky dye and may not fully exhaust. Remove from heat after 1 hour. The water should turn clear as the pan reaches room temperature. If significant bleeding occurs when washing, return to heat for an additional hour.
   13. Let cool to room temperature.
   14. Gently rinse the yarn using cool water taking care not to agitate the fibers.
   15. Optional – Soak the yarn in a conditioning wool wash such as Soak or Eucalan for ~30 minutes.
   16. Hang yarn to dry.
   17. Admire your work!

The Results

When creating this color palette, I was inspired by the patterns and aesthetic of knitwear designer, Olga Putano. I linked to a few pattern suggestions below that would be a perfect knit in your dyed Clover Worsted.

Pattern Suggestions

• The Giverny Sweater
• Morning Ritual
• Upland Sweater